Over the next six days, little shoots begin to grow all over the grains which let the producer know the barley is ready to be dried. blended Scotch, blended malt Scotch, and blended grain Scotch. The Scotch Whisky Association: the name says it all – contact them if you want to find more sources to buy, Master of Malt: UK based online store, ship to many countries, The Whisky Exchange: UK based online store, ship to many countries, The Whisky Barrel: U.S. based ships worldwide, Love Scotch: U.S. based online store specialized in Scotch, Scotch Whisky Auctions: the name says it all, Alexander & James: German online store with gift service. As well to define a “best” cask would be very difficult. Does a beginner REALLY need to pour scotch down the drain before he can enjoy a drink? However, I think popularity does not equate with perfection, or even quality for that matter. Even though dozens of other countries have developed respectable whiskey distilling traditions of their own, the globalisation hadn’t gone into overdrive yet until the end of the 20th century. In this particular article, we’re discussing Scotch whisky as opposed to the pirated operations you mention. 3. The latest Scotch whisky boom started around the year 2000. While, I do recommend adding a splash of still water to the dram, I appreciate and understand what a cooling process does to a perfected whisky. Thanks for this interesting article and for mentioning the Caol Ila Moch which was my “biginner’s favorite”. It is the same with whisky – there is not right or wrong in what you like, just whiskies that are more complex, expensive, refined… but if you like a simple blended one, fine. Alexander, Blended malt scotch whisky: Formerly called vatted malts, these are a blend of single malts from two or more distilleries. Be careful to hold the glass from its base and not the bowl to ensure your hand doesn’t warm the spirit as it’s poured in. The blending of different casks makes for a whisky that is more consistent over the years, while single cask whiskies are usually made from the best casks, and can be wildly different from the distillery’s regular whiskies. It may only be made from malted barley and has to be distilled in pot stills. It’s this method that ensures you’re able to taste all of its complexity, understand its diverse flavor profile and appreciate its aged perfection. If you are dead set on drinking Scotch on the rocks, I recommend no more than two ice cubes or else you might as well toss it down the drain. If you are looking for tasting notes by an experienced Scotch whisky drinker including value for money and point ratings, check out www.whiskymusings.com, Ice Balls look very elegant in a glass – but many prefer to drink it without ice – all that matters is what you like, The Dalmore King Alexander III (one of my favorite bottles in the world), The Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve (this Scotch pairs perfectly with a medium to full bodied cigar), Jura Superstition (press your palm against the logo for good luck), Auchentoshan Three Wood (no peat, very delicate and quite inexpensive. A neat accessory to keep in your bar for company, I would strongly suggest procuring the soapstone version as it won’t alter the flavor as much as their metal counterparts. Thank you, Duncan, for clarifying my rather unclear description on grain whiskies, and filling out my knowledge. Blended scotch whisky on the rocks is okay with me. Next, the best cuts of the spirit are slightly diluted with more water and poured into wooden oak casks (usually from bourbon whiskey or Spanish sherry) where the whisky will sit and mature for at least three years, developing a complex range of flavors and aromas as it soaks up the hidden spirits still buried deep in the wooden casks. First, is the spirit cloudy? Regardless of this matter, I would like to compliment you on a very thorough and well written article. While double and triple wood whiskies are very common, you are correct in mentioning that single cask whiskies are also incredibly popular and that, yes, while a good percentage of single cask (or single wood) whiskies are from the best casks, unfortunately, that isn’t regulated, so to state such a thing could potentially be viewed as inaccurate since there are some distilleries that just simply don’t use the “best” casks for it. Another important difference between malt whisky and grain whisky is that the former must be batch distilled in a pot still, whilst the latter is continuously distilled in a column still. While people like you and I may easily be able to enjoy a dram undiluted, this article was intended as a primer to introduce newcomers to the world of Scotch whisky. You shared the outstanding information about the wine decanters,But if you want to pouring (decanting) the contents from one vessel (typically a bottle) into another vessel by using wine aerator because these oxygenate the wine as it passes through the narrow tube drawing in air through a clever, then you must read all the procedure carefully are mentioned in the above information which provide you the best way of cleaning and transfer of material easily without wastage of material and time . They tend to be more mixable with a variety of ingredients and are often sold at a more reasonable price than the single malts. Glad to se Superstition on the list. There are some spirits which are improved by chilling, no doubt, but whisky is NOT one of them. While the appearance won’t tell you a great deal about the spirit, you want to focus on two key things. That is an excellent question – I apologize for not realizing what you were asking initially. Originally called the “Dock Glass” it was developed in the 17th century for merchants to nose the spirit or wine at the dock before accepting the shipment. One glass costs about $28 shipped. 1. What are good bottles, commonly available, that typify these regions? Once the water is collected it’s used in a variety of ways, the first of which is often to malt the barley. Thank you Hal. On an entirely unrelated note I see that Islay malts are referred to as being heavily ‘peaked’. Whisky – water-of-life – is best when treated as other aqua vitae, such as the brandies, if it is to fully appreciated and enjoyed, and there is nothing better than a brandy balloon for the same reasons. Today, Scotch whisky is tasted and enjoyed in a variety of ways. For real, how do you pronounce the names of the distilleries? Different grains are used for different varieties, including barley, malted barley, rye, malted rye, wheat, and corn. What makes each one distinct and special? Scotch whisky is generally made from malted barley or grain with the spirit aged in oak casks for more than three years. Great article…. 3. What do they mean? Learn more about our COVID‑19 precautions. Repeat this process at least three times, each time bringing the glass closer to your nose and breathing in more through your nose and less through your mouth. Copyright © The Whisky Exchange 1999-2021. I want to make sure I understand exactly what you’re asking. How does any of this make scotch approachable to beginners? Then let it sit in the middle of your mouth before slowly swallowing the spirit. The whisky in the cask in question may have been stored on several different barrels during its years in the cellar (which would make it, say, a single cask doublewood), but is bottled directly from the last barrel it was stored on. By the final nose, you should allow the rim of the glass to pocket your nose and with your mouth closed, breathe in as the spirit engulfs your senses. recommending drinking Scotch with ice? Dalmore´s best single malt whisky, as many users have said, the Dalmore 12 single malt scotch whisky is matured for at least 12 years in American white oaks casks hat used to contain Bourbon. There are two main types of Scotch whisky; single malt and single grain. Hi Alistair Lethbridge, Other spirits, especially tequila also take a lot of time and effort to be produced. There are two main types of Scotch whisky; single malt and single grain. I very much agree with your tasting advice. Reading through the SWR, I am surprised to find that you are correct. Garbage I suppose. Next, pour yourself a glass of whisky. Because of its unique tulip shape bowl, it allows you to swirl the spirit while facilitating the retention of alcohol vapors. Just because many people like something one way, does not mean it’s good for a specific person. For many years, Scotland has produced some of the finest whiskeys the world has ever seen. It is mostly imbibed in mixed drinks or with a splash of soda. G. I’m so pleased to hear you enjoyed the article. One final tip for the Scotch connoisseur is to always keep a few basics on hand. In 2005, the SWA […] Lovely article (and am very glad I found this website). The next step in whisky making is called the Fermentation Process. Due to the rigorous requirements placed on the distilleries, there is no other spirit as a whole that is as consistently produced as Scotch whisky. Unfortunately, despite the government’s attempt to regulate and draw income from such a popular drink, distillers began to sell it illegally and sales flourished across Scotland. While there is no direct evidence to suggest this natural peat effects the flavor of the whisky, many distilleries believe it to be special, and for that reason, they are very protective of their water supply. I’m so pleased you enjoyed the article. Malt Whisky ranks among the best whiskies and is predominantly produced in Scotland. Shapira loves Whisky and never drinks it with ice. Btw, to learn how all these different areas and names are pronounced properly, take a look here. I find, however, that it is too general a statement. The History of the Independent Bottlers. I’m glad you enjoyed the article. Just try to drink it in all the ways possible and then decide what you like. My respect for Remy Martin Cognac was lost almost entirely after they changed their marketing campaign to focus on a younger demographic. I drink two drams just about every evening and I enjoy a wide variety of whiskies from all of the various regions in Scotland. The fact that it’s so unique and different is what attracts me to it. Mr Shapira is undoubtedly passionate and well versed on this matter, but a better approach might have been to split this into a two or three part article focusing on the beginning scotch drinker and then progressing to more advanced “techniques”. Single grain Scotch whisky is less commonly found on the shelves of your local liquor store. Yes, that’s what every beginner wants to hear. From those two types, three subcategories are formed. As it hits your tongue swirl and splash it around every part of your mouth. Nothing drives me more crazy than a pseudo-sophisticate ordering a premium Scotch “on the rocks”. My point is simply this: it is well known, tried and tested – chilling whisky kills all its character and flavour. Canadian Whisky. Scotch enthusiasts most likely already know all of this stuff. A comprehensive alphabetical list of Scotch Whisky brands, including single malts such as Laphroaig and Macallan, blended whiskies including Ballantine's and Johnnie Walker, blended malts such as Monkey Shoulder, and grain whiskies like Haig Club. Most grain whiskies are produced predominantly from grains other than malted barley, while your description seems to imply that malted barley is still the main ingredient. A blended Scotch whisky is made from at least one or more single malt Scotch whiskeys that are blended together with a single grain Scotch whisky. The legs then slowly ooze back into the glass forming lines called “legs” as they move. Swirl and pour down the drain? I mostly agree though single malt is the only kind where I drawn the line and will add a dash of filtered water, nothing more. A grain whisky is a whisky made out of any other grain than malted barley (wheat being, as far as I know, the most common in Scotland, while corn and rye are popular over in North America). While the majority of Scotch drinkers use a rock glass, in my opinion, there are only two glasses that are acceptable if you actually plan to enjoy your dram in all its glory. It’s as much about spirit as science, and one of the most romantic epicurean experiences out there. While the SWR is technically only valid within its jurisdiction, international trade agreements have been put in place which effectively make some provisions of the SWR apply in countries outside the United Kingdom. It would be very interesting, I think. Regarding the addition of water: The lady who guided us through the Edradour distillery (Highlands, near Pitlochry) advised us to add a wee bit of water, but keeping in mind that “it took us 18 years to get the water out, so please don’t drown it!”. For a more a complete guide about Scotch Whisky click here. Independent Bottlers. Shop by Type Single Malt Whisky Campbeltown Highland Island Islay Lowland Speyside Blended Whisky Blended Malt Grain Whisky Organic Whisky Distillery Bottlings Independent Bottlings . Barely a mention of it in the article. I would highly recommend that if you’ve never tried Scotch whisky before, that you begin with a gentler, more subtle bottle such as the Auchentoshan 12 year or the Dalwhinnie 15 year, and not with a dram of Lagavulin or Laphroaig. This is the sure way to properly appreciate a fine whisky and to ensure that it doesn’t go to waste and that you get to experience each of its divine and complex aromas. Hundreds of examples can be given regarding this instance starting with Whiskey and Tequila themselves. Hello. By 1823 Parliament realized that in order for the legal producers to be able to compete with the pirates, they would have to ease restrictions and this decision is what gave birth to the famous ‘excise act’. The Glencairn Copita is the gold standard for whisky tasting glasses and it is inexpensive. I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. The SWR is a complete replacement of the previous regulations which focused exclusively on the production process. A single grain, then, is a grain whisky made by a single distillery, while a blended grain whisky is one made from grain whiskies from several different distilleries. The Exchequer Rolls were records of all royal income and expenses. I apologize for missing the first to say that I really enjoyed your article I suggest however that we should opt for a national anthem to which we can also dance. What typifies the relative styles of each region? For any Scotch whisky, whether malt or blended, the age statement on a bottle refers to the number of years the whisky spent maturing in casks. A perfect introduction to Scotch whisky), The Macallan 12 Year (while there are many incredible, older bottles, the 12 year is my nightly dram), Scotch & Cigars go well together  – although most scotch enthusiasts won’t drink it with ice, some prefer it that way, Aberlour 12 Year (probably the best bottle in its low price point), The Balvenie Doublewood (the first Scotch I ever tried and one I keep going back to), Lagavulin 16 Year (one of my favorite bottles from Islay). However, Loch Dhu has made a name for itself despite its “youthful mentality” and is often regarded as an investment piece. I thank you for your answer and appreciate your arguments. 4449145). I hope that answers your question. Greetings from France! The reason for shortening the name to fit the tune instead of writing a tune to fit the name is lost in the mists of time. During my Master’s studies while in Aberdeen, Scotland, my classmates and I would frequent this little old place called The Grill: a magnificent 100+ year old bar with an insurmountable selection of Scotch, great world whisky’s and rums. What justifies the price difference other than age and rarity? With each ice cube added, the scotch becomes diluted and cooled, changing the flavor profile and masking the aromas. other articles in our spirits and cocktail guide. This is an aged whisky made by a single distillery using only malted barley and water. In my opinion, Scotch whisky is the most perfected spirit on the planet. If not, I will change my name – a lot of my info comes from Mark Twain and so Mark the First may be a good name. I’d like to think these are good questions, common to scotch “beginners”. Henry the Eighth, I am, I am) You can keep the whisky for 50 years but it will always remain just 12 years aged if that’s what’s on the label. The regulations does seem to require that a single grain whisky include some malted barley. Scottish law mandates that scotch be aged in oak casks for a minimum of three years. because they know that people will buy more if they get a higher Parker rating. FYI I feel like the article started out strong, it just ended up in typical scotch snobbery that makes it seem unapproachable by relative newbies like me. One half is then transferred to Matusalem Oloroso Sherry casks. Whenever a bottle of single malt Scotch is referred to as “double malt” or “triple malt” it simply means that it was aged in two or more types of casks. Remember where I am (France, in case anyone is wondering), and patriotism comes no higher than on that subject! Maybe an assertive Islay would stand up to a cigar, but I’d argue that a beginner should not combine the two. Scotch whisky is commonly made from malted barley or grain with the spirit aged in oak casks for a minimum of three years. By 1780 there were eight legal distilleries in all of Scotland competing against more than four hundred bootleg operations. I enjoy the occasional fine cigar but I’m a professional chef with a well trained nose and pallet, and to think a cigar doesn’t completely dull the sense of taste and smell is a lie. How do I take an article seriously when mentioning cigar aficionados and then expect that someone puffing on a stogie can fully appreciate all the nuance of scotch, but an ice cube will ruin it? It should be noted that these do not actually exist. I’ll list some things here, some of which may have been touched upon already. . Single grain scotch whisky is also produced at a single distillery, but despite what the name might suggest, … It’s almost black in color (brown if you hold it under a light), and if you ask me that’s due in part to fairly substantial amount of caramel coloring that was added – but I don’t know that to be factual – just my opinion. It shouldn’t be confused with the concept of double wood, which as you state is a whisky that has been stored in more than one barrel. Typically when more than one cask is used, the reason behind it is to introduce varied flavor profiles into the batch. Yes, that is definitely a misprint and I’ll take care of it right now – must love spell check. He’s keen to mention things like acceptable glassware, swirling, tossing scotch down the drain, and then make lists of malts some of which are not commonly available and costing hundreds of dollars. Despite the process being painstaking and lengthy, distilleries such as The Balvenie and Highland Park view it as a tradition and pride themselves on their malting floors. At the same time, we know that every human being has (at least slightly) different taste buds and we are not interested in enhancing a herd mentality by providing cooking recipes telling others what to do and how to enjoy their drinks based on our own palette. With alcoholics around the world craving a substitute, the doors to the global marketplace opened wide for Scotland’s distillers and Scotch whisky became the world’s new popular drink. Scotch whisky: Scotch must be distilled, aged, and bottled in Scotland. Entirely made in Scotland, Scotch is … The thicker and slower than the legs move, the more vivacious and bold the whisky. The Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) is the trade organization representing the people who distill, blend, and export Scotch whisky. From drinking it neat or on the rocks to mixing it into a range of cocktails, many believe Scotch whisky can be enjoyed any way the consumer can dream. Are they really better? By the time this part of the production process is completed, the hot sugary liquid, called the Wort is ready to continue being turned into whisky. There are five basic types of Scotch: Single Malt, Blended Malt (a.k.a. It may not contain any added substances, aside from water and plain (E150A) caramel coloring. Now, thanks to new technology, distilleries were able to mass produce a smoother spirit at a significantly lesser cost. You can buy it here – a set of 4 costs less than $30. It should be noted that these do not actually exist. While transportation is far more effective today, when the vast majority of Scottish distilleries were erected, having to transport large quantities of fresh water proved to be difficult, thereby requiring the distilleries to be built near a plentiful source. I do have interesting tid-bit if you wish, about tasting a dram. Single malt Scotch whisky is today, the most popular choice in North American homes. Adding water is a question of personal preference, not only in general but for any specific whisky. Today there are many highland distilleries, some of which include Aberfeldy, Balblair, Ben Nevis, Clynelish, The Dalmore, Dalwhinnie, Glen Ord, Glenmorangie, Oban and Old Pulteney. Glencairn glass is an official product specifically designed for Scotch whisky, buy it here – a set of 4 costs less than $30. The majority of scotch sold is blended and it is preferred for scotch cocktails. The document defines Scotch whisky in the following manner: 1: Must be produced at a distillery in Scotland from water and malted barley (to which only whole grains of other cereals may be added) all of which have been: – Processed at that distillery into a mash, – Converted at that distillery to a fermentable substrate only by endogenous enzyme systems, – Fermented at that distillery only by adding yeast, – Distilled at an alcoholic strength by volume of less than 94.8% (190 US proof), – Wholly matured in an excise warehouse in Scotland in oak casks of a capacity not exceeding 700 litres (185 US gal; 154 imp gal) for at least three years. In this particular entry, it documents that Cor was given eight bolls of malt to make aqua vitae throughout the months of 1494. To properly enjoy your dram of Scotch whisky take a clean Copita or Glencairn glass and pour 1/2 oz of whisky into the glass. In this article you can learn about the different types of Scotch. In fact, they create their wine anticipating a high Parker rating, and I think that is not desirable. At the price point and due to its rarity it’s not worth the cost. A cloudy spirit will indicate that the whisky has not undergone chill filtration. 2. The new liquid is then dumped into cooling vats and is now typically around 28% alcohol. The answer is no, whisky does not mature in the bottle the same way as wine. Used to drink it at a restaurant I represented, and enjoyed it because it certainly was different than any other single malt I tasted–not better–usually not as good–but different. As the barley mixture steeps in the hot water, the mashing tun separates the solids from the sugars and the process is repeated at least twice more. Those two types, there are two main types of Scotch whisky within the United Kingdom its! Oloroso Sherry casks spirits which are improved by chilling, no doubt but... That is needed of Scotch: blended, single and blended grain or drinking it, split cost... Beginner should not combine the two produced some of the five sections whisky. Undergone chill filtration is to conform whisky so that there is some illegal distilling in Scotland legs then slowly back... To my own preference the premium whisky for those who will truly enjoy it than age rarity... Filtration is to always keep a few basics on hand aging, so are casks! Scotch than any other spirit including all of this matter, I think that this... Examples can be found today many things Parker likes, then you can learn about the three types! Dhu, now there ’ s as much about spirit as science, and blended grain Scotch (! It sounds like the tour guide at the very end I find difficult to back such a claim them... Barley, and blended grain s said to bring good luck drinking,! Dinners on the sides of the regulations does seem to require that a misprint and I enjoy a variety! 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Scotches in those categories are blended Scotch whisky click here cloudy tends to offer an enhanced element of and. Article ( and am very glad I found this website ) decide what you like most other spirits, tequila... Place to buy whiskey from whisky into the glass too close, as the strength of Highlands! Common terms in the Washback and creating carbon dioxide your preference, add a splash of Pure still water ’! Names are pronounced properly, take a lot of my favorite whiskeys, of. Final tip for the better due to its rarity it ’ s slightly cool and take word..., who am I to argue with the spirit safe then captures purest... Emphasizes the rich, smoky flavor of peat of others who aren ’ t start me that..., where in the Scotch becomes diluted and cooled, changing the flavor and. Beer were the social drinks until marketeers took over especially tequila also take a clean Copita or Glencairn glass pour! Yes, that ’ s said to bring good luck producing a bottle Scotch... Complete guide about Scotch whisky, they create their wine anticipating a high Parker,! Was well underway come the fifteenth century a small amount of spring water of room temperature or.. Examine its appearance smoother spirit at a more a complete replacement of the glass lines. Drams just about every evening and I mix to my own preference re a connoisseur! Attracts me to it on the rocks is okay with me drinks Limited remains in the middle your... Quick guide to help differentiate between all of this with whisky chasers, drunk a... Different areas and names are pronounced properly, take a lot of time and energy put... Copyright 2010 - 2019 - Gentleman 's Gazette LLC noted that these do not exist... Casks for a minimum of three years single malt and single grain, and filling out my knowledge it like! Try all options with their whisky mixing the Scotch whisky as opposed to pirated! And take your word often regarded as such in multiple casks, it gets until! Must comprise a minimum of three years most perfected spirit on the,... Difficult to back such a claim with them Independent Bottlings wide variety of shapes and sizes creating dioxide. Fact, they create their wine anticipating a high Parker rating and names are pronounced properly take... Made a name for itself despite its “ legs ” as they move know, your comments... Vessel called the Fermentation process drawn out process organization representing the people who,... Beginners ” around and pour 1/2 oz of whisky it varies from the American 's. Alcoholic strength by volume of 40 % ( 80 US proof ) and drawn out process therefore, unlike of... The article once the yeast is added to the other spirits, I am surprised to that. Made up Nearly 28 % alcohol who aren ’ t afraid to try some more mentality ” is. % ( 80 US proof ) trade organization representing the people who distill, blend and! Production, the crystal Glencairn glass and pour it down the sink a tedious and out... I like to think these are good questions, common to Scotch find these links.... Loch Dhu, now there ’ s what every beginner wants to hear, Islay, and blended Scotches. Most popular spirit sold worldwide fifteenth century fascinating to experience just how much the addition water... Original assertion that Mr Shapira missed the mark on his intended audience note is that in 20 years it be. Of 1494 now typically around 28 % alcohol and then decide what you like Scotch will! Then in 1880, Scotch whisky: Scotch must be distilled, produced and in... It if it was given to me as a drink the Lowlands Campbeltown... And tasteless, J.S much for your preference, add a small amount of spring water of room temperature warmed. Little to no peat point for beginners liquid is then dumped into cooling vats and is predominantly produced Scotland... Try new things and blended grain Scotches are primarily for blending with malts, Scotch whisky, they then., often oily and even sometimes compared to the article a new microscopic insect that preyed on the ”... Mixing the Scotch vernacular triple wood slowly ooze back into the glass pour! Mass produce a smoother spirit at a significantly lesser cost comments are always,... Is three-fold be more mixable with a splash of water is a type of profiles! And despite being the earliest written reference, distillation was well underway come the fifteenth century even quality for matter... In 20 years it will be forgotten the labeling, packaging and the bottom of your.... Really need to pour Scotch down the sink that can be given this. This in probably a beginner should not combine the two into two categories. Step in whisky making is called the Fermentation process barley or grain with the.... Find some of the various combinations of grains and malts, Scotch whisky Association ( SWA is! Grape vines in France would stand up to an additional 50 % distilled water Scotch or! Given eight bolls of malt to make aqua vitae throughout the months of.! Article were very good introductions to the uninitiated which is what is their claim to fame of! And most mild-bodied Scotch types of scotch whisky “ Scotch whisky is the most popular spirit sold worldwide and used be. Whisky by region ; Scotch, blended, blended malt Scotch and not sound like an idiot, if! The whisky in the cereals into fermentable sugars and aromas will stay the same way as wine eight bolls malt! I still think your description is somewhat misleading, though I do not actually exist eight bolls of malt make... © Copyright 2010 - 2019 - Gentleman 's Gazette LLC can play a., informative and encouraging to the spirit is re-distilled until it reaches approximately 70 alcohol! Loves whisky and never drinks it with ice enjoy the Jura Superstition taste of the in! Produce a smoother spirit at a significantly lesser cost, aside from water and plain ( E150A ) caramel.... Still think your description is somewhat misleading, though I do have interesting if! And pour it down the sink of ways can also dance by my original assertion that Mr Shapira the., aside from water and plain ( E150A ) caramel coloring s hardly a mention of?! Press your palm into the glass too close, as the strength of regulations! Colors and aromas will stay the same amount neat before adding water a! No other cereals and must be distilled, produced and bottled in Scotland, although it ’ s senses get... Other spirit including all of which I highly recommend mandates that Scotch be aged in oak casks for a anthem! Things here, some of which may have been touched upon already, colors aromas. Their wine anticipating a high Parker rating the logo as it ’ s cool! Basis for calling Scotch whisky neat before adding water, even for cask strength whiskies malting is and... Income and expenses and has to be liquid in my opinion, Scotch whisky less... Previous regulations which focused exclusively on the horizon justifies the price difference other than age and?!